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Local Life - May 2025

Chin-Chin

to CHENIN!

A terrific cultivar to beat the summer heat has to be Chenin Blanc. Despite being one of South Africa’s most widely planted varieties, Chenin is often misunderstood and written off by local wine fans. The likely reason for this is its historic use as the base wine for our thriving world-class brandy industry, and its prominence and association to the former dopsystem of paying farm workers. But there’s far more to Chenin Blanc than papsak and brandewyn. In fact, what many local enthusiastic wine drinkers may not realise is that South African Chenin Blanc is amongst the finest examples produced in the world.

TEXT: LIfestyle Editor | IMAGES: Frogitt & Vonkel

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CHEER UP, IT’S TIME FOR CHENIN!
CHENIN BLANC IS TAKING SUMMER BY STORM

Originally hailing from the Loire Valley in Northern France, Chenin Blanc is a very versatile cultivar capable of producing a wide range of styles and profiles. Climate has an important role in how Chenin presents itself as does the type of soil. Sandy soils tend to produce light and approachable styles, whereas limestone encourages good acidity. The right mix of soil and climate can produce wonderful complex wines of both acidity and weight. These characteristics and variables can be seen by tasting an Elgin example alongside one from the Swartland or any of the many fine Wards comprising the Cape Winelands, or further afield.

Chenin is thought to have been amongst the cuttings first brought to the Cape by Jan Van Riebeek some 350 years ago. Since its arrival it has thrived in the Cape, and for most of its time here has been known as Steen, with some producers still electing to call it that.

As a result of the versatility of the varietal, Chenin often makes a great wine to pair with food. Keeping the particular style of a certain wine in mind, lighter bodied styles work very well with salads, chicken and line-fish. The sweeter styles, often from warmer climates, work very well with spicy curries and Asian dishes. The balanced and mineral-led examples are excellent with creamy pasta dishes and even rich foods like pâté.

Most styles tend to exhibit stone fruit and honey flavours, with good texture on the palate. If you are pouring for friends who are divided on style between Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, Chenin often will please both camps.

To fully explore the versatility and complexity of these wines Local Life has carefully curated a Reader’s Case with Frogitt & Vonkel Private Wine Merchants. The case of six bottles includes examples of cooler Helderberg climate, and warmer and diverse Wards Swartland, Wellington and Rawsonville. The styles vary from wooded, to completely unwooded and there’s even an award-winning sparkling MCC version too!

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